The Best Shashlik in Riga

Homo sapiens have been searing meat over flame since we were cave-dwellers. But the mouth-melting results have scaled new heights on grills from Tbilisi to Tukums, and they are a wonderful part of Riga's dining scene.

Speared meat treats became a favourite street food across the Russian Empire 300 years ago. The word "shashlik," meaning "skewerable," actually comes from the Crimean Tatar language. But whether mtsvadi in Georgian khorovats in Armenian or šašliks in Latvian, taste buds tingle with joy.

Barred from travelling to the West, Soviet Latvians instead went on holidays to other parts of the USSR. They promptly fell in love with the mountains, wine and cuisine of Georgia and Armenia (and it is said the Caucasians gained a taste for Riga Black Balsam and Baltic blondes).

Back home, every red blooded Latvian men (this is overwhelmingly a male space) developed his unique marinade and grilling method. It's almost a spiritual experience, as the guy below reveals.

Below is my personal selection of the five best shashlik joints around Riga.

You can also join me on flavour journeys around the city! For a sip of Riga Black Balsam in Old Riga or scrumptious cakes in the Art Nouveau district, pickles and cheese in the Central Market or a home-made meal in a Soviet-era apartment, contact me to plan your delicious Riga tour!

A sign of just how much Riga loves shashlik is this "contemporary Georgian" joint in the city centre. The expansive tribal-meets-21st century space is packed even midweek, and booking is highly recommended if you don't want to be forlornly turned away.

BABO means "grandma," and the menu takes the best from her kitchen and gives it a stylish twist. Georgians have grilled fish for centuries, but the Icelandic salmon shashlik wrapped in freshly baked lavash with a cream and salmon roe sauce takes flavour to a new level. Rinsed with a glass of Aleksandrouli red, for even better results.

The name means "Noah's Ark" in Armenian. And for years, ravenous folk from near and far have found gastronomic refuge at this Jūrmala delight.

Armenians regard Mount Ararat where the ark came aground as a sacred place. And their cuisine's roots stretch back almost as far as the famous boat. Ancient Armenian nomads carried finely minced lamb or mutton for a quick and tasty grill in the wild. This ground meat tradition is today called Lula Kebab, and the lamb and beef version served at Nojan Tapan is superb. Especially washed down with a glass of traditional semi sweet pomegranate wine.

It's a big place, with a cozy lob cabin interior and alcoves for al freco feasting in the garden. The laid back staff ensure you can savour every morsel.

Don't be confused by the name, because this place has nothing to do with Spain or Portugal. In fact, "Iberia" was an ancient Kingdom of Georgia, and this veteran eatery in Pārdaugava is fit for royalty.

Located in a lane next to a highway, there's no foot traffic to draw diners. But for over 25 years, locals in the know have been drawn to the delectable treats concocted at the family-owned joint.

Pork shashlik from the Khaketi region of Georgia is especially revered for its rich flavour, and the "pig funeral" at Iberia is especially succulent. Ibērija also does luscious hachapuri (cheese-filled pastry), hinkali dumplings and dolma (stuffed vine leaves). Bring your extended family for a feast - that's the Georgian spirit!

See the map at the bottom for contact details for all the venues.

Shashlik goes global at this innovative central Riga restaurant.

Iesmi means skewer in Latvian, and celebrity chef Mārtiņš Sirmais dishes up meaty treats from a slew of cultures. The "Chicken Trio" offering subtle Indian, Japanese and Latvian flavours in one tantalising dish is a wonderful way to taste the planet from a comfy seat on gorgeous Blaumaņa iela.

The trimmings of miso soup, salads, lavash and, yes, potatoes on skewers is art on a plate.

With its forest trails, old world mansions and Song Festival vibes, Mežaparks is a chilling haven for stressed city slickers.

Those in the know also revere a culinary gem in the green oasis. Šašliki Mangaļos (Shasliks in Mangaļi) has spent decades relieving appetites honed by all that walking, and staying exactly the same. Battered Soviet furniture. A menu limited to a choice of three meats, lavash or rye bread, and some tomatoes or pickles. A bell like a fire alarm telling you when your skewers are ready to collect and carry aloft back to the table.

Check out the juices flowing from the lamb pictured at the top of this article... And the service is down to earth friendly, and it's the best value in town. No renovations required!