Riga Visitor Information

Breakfast

The Old Town branch of Mārtiņa beķereja (Martin's Bakery, Vaļņu iela 28) does scrumptious pīrāgi (pastries filled with bacon, mushrooms or cabbage), vēja kūka cream cakes and coffee for bargain prices. Troubadurs Gourmand (Kr.Barona iela 52) is a veteran French-run cafe offering mouth-watering croissants, baguette sandwiches and macaroons.

Lunch

For a good value Latvian bistro meal, head to the outpost of the Lido chain in Old Town (Tirgoņu iela 6). The šašliks (meat skewers) and aukstā zupa (cold beet soup) go down a treat.

Many restaurants do great value business lunches on weekdays. Try Buberts (Dzirnavu iela 15) in the Art Nouveau district for tasty and healthy meals as well as yummy pastries. 

Vegetarians and vegans can feast at the uptown Hare Krishna restaurant Rāma (Kr.Barona iela 56). 

Dinner

Zviedru vārti (Torņa iela 4-1) is a family-owned restaurant serving delicious, good value Latvian classics like grey peas with bacon, potato pancakes and rye bread soup with fruit and whipped cream for dessert. The Old Town terrace is lovely on a warm afternoon.

For a historic atmosphere  and a hearty feed, Lāsīte (Mazā Pils iela 13) is a medieval cellar doing huge portions of game dishes and Latvian specialties. The also do the best ķiploku grauzdiņi (deep fried garlic ye bread) in the city!

For top Latvian contemporary cuisine, watch the cooks do their magic in the open kitchen at 3 pavāru restorāns (3 Chefs Restaurant, (Torņa iela 4). 

Riga Central Market 

Don't miss Riga's huge Central Market, right next to Old Town. Five former zeppelin hangers are packed with fresh fruit and veg, local cheese, sausages, pickles, pastries, smoked fish and everything else for a picnic. The food court is nice for a budget lunch, too. 

• Build up your appetite with a fascinating walk in Riga's medieval Old Town or the incredible Art Nouveau quarter.

Beer

 My Beer (Alksnāja iela 10/12), the biggest beer salon in the Baltics, offers 600 brews for a reasonable price in a historic warehouse. The pavement seating is as chilled as the beers. Learn about Latvian beer history while you nurse a pint.

Folk Club Ala (Peldu iela 19) is an Old Town institution dishing up dozens of brews, coronary inducing Latvian fare and entertainment from live bands to all-in folk dancing. It gets jam packed so booking a table is a good move. 

Zobens un Lemess, (Sword and Ploughshare, Aristīda Briāna iela 10) is a friendly blend of pagan heavy metal, craft beer and dirty hip decor. A slew of other rocking pubs nearby guarantee a big night,

Cafes

 Black Magic (Kaļķu iela 10) is an Old Town veteran showcasing the city's official drink, Riga Black Balsam. Down a Black Shooter or a Riga Coffee, and don't skip the Balsam meringue for dessert.

Sienna (Strēlnieku iela 3) is a posh classic with old world furnishings, pricey but excellent coffee and lush views of one of Mikhail Eisenstein's Art Nouveau marvels. The cakes are top-notch, too.

Cocktails

Skyline Bar (26th floor of the Soviet-icon Hotel Latvija) has the hands down best views of Riga. Grab a Rigatini and drink in the scenery.

Distillers Republic (Vecpilsētas 8a) makes their own gin and creative cocktails in a fun-filled medieval cellar. There's a slew of other cool bars in the same block, for a hassle-free night on the tiles.

• Savour Riga's most spectacular sights on a city highlights tour.

Museums

Housed in a gem built in the heyday of the style (see the picture), Riga's Art Nouveau Museum (Alberta iela 12) takes you inside a lavishly decorated period apartment. History, art and architecture in one beautiful package.

The National Art Museum of Latvia (Jaņa Rozentāla laukums 1) has a rich collection of Latvian art, and the grand building dating from 1905 is a masterpiece in itself. 

Riga Motor Museum (take trolleybus 14 to the stop "S.Eizenšteina iela") is a fun, interactive venue full of historic cars, including ones that belonged to Stalin and Brezhnev. Well worth the trip to Soviet-era suburbia.

Designed by American Latvian architect Gunārs Birkerts, the National Library of Latvia is known as the Castle of Light, a reference to an ancient legend about a sunken palace full of knowledge.

History

The former KGB Headquarters (Brīvības iela 61) gives a deep dive into Latvia's brutal 20th century history. Get your tickets for a tour of the cellars by the museum's guides.

The Museum of Occupation (Latviešu Strēnieku laukums 1), located in Old Town in a Soviet brutalist building, is a harrowing reminder of Latvia's turbulent 20th century history.

The museum Jews in Latvia (Skolas iela 6) recounts the story of the Jewish community over several centuries, while the Žannis Lipke Memorial (Mazais Balasta dambis 9) on Ķīpsala Island is a museum dedicated to a Latvian family who rescued dozens of Jews during the Holocaust. 

• Let me show you the sights of Soviet Riga on a tour of the city's communist history.

Nature

Set picturesquely on Lake Jugla on Riga's eastern outskirts, the Latvian Open Air Ethnographic Museum is a treasure trove of historic farmhouses, churches and windmills. Plan on at least half a day. Take bus No 31 from the central station to the stop "Brīvdabas muzejs."

Ghostly Lielie kapi (the Great Cemetery) with overgrown monuments to cultural figures and statesmen, and architecturally monumental Brālu kapi (Brothers in Arms) are fascinating places to stroll around. 

South of the river, the University of Latvia Botanical Gardens are a great place for a green break. Don't miss the butterflies in the tropical house. Take trolleybus No 9 from the central station to the stop "Botāniskais dārzs."

• Come with me on another stunning nature trip to Sigulda.

Āgenskalns

South of the river, Āgeskalns is a delightful district of historic timber houses, a blossoming cafe and bar scene and fun shopping. Āgensklans local market has fresh produce, specialty shops and restaurants in its recently restored historic main building, There's a flea market here on Saturdays.

The timber restoration model Kalnciems Quarter has regular summer evening concerts and an upmarket growers' market on Saturdays.

Ķīpsala, an island in the Daugava, has handsome old ship's captain's houses and lovely views of the city. Ķīpsala is an easy walk from Old Town over the Cable Bridge. For Āgenskslns, take tram No 2 to the stop "Āgenskalna tirgus."

Mežaparks

One of Europe's first garden suburbs, Mežaparks offers avenues of lovely pre-war mansions, picturesque lakeside Riga Zoo, the Latvian Song Festival Arena and miles of hiking and biking trails. Take bus No 11T from Radio iela near the central station to the stop "Mežaparks/ZOO."

Maskačka

Set on the "wrong' side of the tracks, Maskačka may not have much cash, but it is very rich in culture and history. Climb the Soviet-built Academy of Science Soviet high-rise for bird's eye views, reflect on the ruins of the Great Choral Synagogue, check out Jēzusbaznīca (the Church of Jesus, the biggest wooden church in the Baltics), and snap up bargains at Latgalīte flea market. Its an easy walk or bike ride, just east of the Central Market.

• Enjoy a seaside stroll on a Jūrmala walking tour or discover diverse ecosystems on a day trip to Ķemeri.